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May 1, 2008

Restaurant Review: Brown Sugar Kitchen

Chef Tanya HollandBy Sonya Smith
Tanya Holland photo courtesy of FoodNetwork.com

The Brown Sugar Kitchen, which is billed as serving ‘new style down home’ food, is fast becoming a neighborhood attraction and anchor. Located in West Oakland on Mandela Parkway, the restaurant continues the development of an area stretching from the West Oakland BART station to Emeryville.

“I expected to have a soft opening,” says chef/owner, Tanya Holland at the end of a long shift on a continually busy Saturday. On this day, patrons waited upwards of 45 minutes for a table in the 43-seat restaurant.

The waiting time is made more palatable by the ability to order juice, mimosas (on weekends), Blue Bottle coffee or fresh baked pastries from the ‘bar’ while you wait. Fresh baked sweets include sticky buns, muffins, as well as cakes, cookies, and pies.

Not only does Holland oversee the daily operation, she is in the kitchen cooking each day. On weekends, Holland is helped out by co-owner and spouse, Phil Surkis.

Surkis also oversees the restaurant music playlist, which is part of Holland’s concept of ’soul’, and contributes to the comfortable ambience.

Brown Sugar KitchenMeals served at the Brown Sugar Kitchen often take on the characteristics of compositions rather than stand alone dishes. “Maybe that’s because this is how I like to eat my food,” Holland says of her approach.

An example of this is the popular the Buttermilk Fried Chicken and Cornmeal Waffle. To fully experience this meal, try it by having a piece of the flaky, light waffle along with a slice of fried chicken, all soaked in the warm apple cider syrup.

The syrup marries the flavors of each item in the meal into a taste experience that is absent if you eat each item by itself.

The Brown Sugar BBQ Ribs from the wood smoked barbeque is another customer favorite. A half rack of baby back ribs are lightly covered in a pineapple glaze and diced mango. The sweetness of the fruit augments the flavor of the pork without overpowering.

Other meals from the wood smoked barbeque are the Jerk Chicken and the Pulled Barbeque Pork Sandwich.

With each of these entrees, you have the choice one side dish. Sides range from a cabbage slaw with lime dressing—an excellent complement to an Oyster Po Boy Sandwich—to baked macaroni and cheese served in individual ramekins to the sweet potato and gruyere gratin.

Holland has a career that puts her in the celebrity chef category. Her bio on the Food Network website states, “Tanya holds a Bachelor of Arts in Russian Language and Literature from the University of Virginia, as well as a Grand Diploma from La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine in Burgundy, France.”

Holland has worked at restaurants owned by some of the nation’s most well-known chefs, such as Bobby Flay. “I learned a lot from owner/chefs,” she says. Holland has also worked with Roscoe Betsill as a food styling assistant, which explains why her dishes are just as enjoyable to look at as they are to eat.

Her many credits include appearing on the Food Network, and, recently, guest starring on the local ABC TV magazine show, View from the Bay, and on KPFA’s Hard Knock Radio.

New Soul CookingIn 2003, her cookbook, New Soul Cooking: Updating a Cuisine Rich in Flavor and Tradition (Melting Pot), was published. The recipes apply Holland’s classical French cooking techniques to multi-ethnic cuisine.

Since the Brown Sugar Kitchen is now opened only for breakfast and lunch, the menu includes classic breakfast meals made with Holland’s special touch.

Holland has plans to open for dinner, and in preparation for that, the menu features a fine selection of sparkling, whites, reds, and dessert wines, as well as beer.

Brown Sugar Kitchen
2534 Mandela Parkway
Oakland, Calif.
510-839-SOUL (7685)
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

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